NO OTHER WAY BUT UP: THE UGO EXPERIENCE 1/3

The signature pose of the mountaineers at the summit

More than often, we think that there is an existing shortcut in mountain climbing. Unfortunately, it does not exist. If we want to reach the summit, there's no other way but up.

After various encounters with different summits around the world, I feel a deeper call - the feeling that the mountain is calling me. This is the reason why on the fateful day of the 27th of November, I once again ventured to discover the beauty of Mt. Ugo. The preparation was six (6) months and just like other preparations, you don't prepare until the last month. So, here I am working my heart out so I can endure the climb and the cold weather.

The HMU has organized a 3D2N expedition to conquer the 2,150MASL Mt. Ugo in Benguet. The mountain became famous after a Philippine Airlines crashed on its slopes in the 80's.

Ugo is associated with the headhunting activity of the tribes back then. After calling officers from DENR and from the Barangay Hall of Tinongdan, I come up with an initial itinerary. I planned to jumpstart at Kayapa Nueva Vizcaya and back. Then another trail came, that of Itogon and back. Finally, I decided to pursue what most climbers traversed - Kayapa-Itogon Trail.

I sent invitations to fellow mountaineers and friends and I was overwhelmed by the surge of positive responses.

UPS AND DOWNS

Come September. The pledges to join suddenly come dwindling down. The thirty (30) plus willing souls for the expedition was down to half. Then a month before the scheduled climb, we lost another five (5) mountainers.

I settled for ten climbers and thought it is not bad. I continued the organization trying to fuse groups from 5 units down to a single group. Then just two (2) weeks before the climb, I lost another three (3). We were only seven (7).

Good thing, a couple of days before the expedition, I was able to pull one to join with us with a promise that she will never regret joining the climb.

THE GATHERING

The excitement has increased when each climber met each other, some, for the first time, while others reunited. At the Hypermarket in SM Sucat we started to fill our shopping cart with food provisions that will sustain us through the journey.

We drove towards the airport to fetch another three (climbers), the Tres Marias. We were graced to have with us Mondot, who voluntarily drove us to our destination. We were hours late of our planned itinerary because of the delays of the flights.

Cruising along the NLEX, SCTEX and TPLEX, everyone tried to doze off for a final rest before the ascent. Stopping from time to time at different stations helped us replenish the hunger and thirst from a long journey. At the break of day, we were already driving along the Aritao-Kayapa highway. All were already awake...and confused why our van kept on going around. It was the fault of the GPS as the ones in front claimed...or was it...

Each climber became instant friends. Each assured their companions that the climb will be memorable and fruitful. This is how our gathering took place.

THE ARRIVAL

After going round and round, we finally arrived

We were almost there. Then we were there. Then we are here. That was how we called our arrival because we drove past our jump off point and we have to drive back to that point. KAYAPA PUBLIC MARKET says the big sign in front of the police station. We arrived at Kayapa past seven (7) in the morning. We were two (2) hours late.

Keep us safe, O Lord, we pray

We thought that we were the only group who will ascend but there was another group of around twenty (20) young climbers. After we discussed with our guide and porters, we took our breakfast and a short rest. At the start of our journey we begged the Lord of Creation to bring us safely to our destination and to protect us in our way.

So far, we started out well. Though we went around in circles looking for the jump off area, all were excited to start the climb.

THE ASSAULT

Along a cemented path we commenced our trek

At 8am, the group started the journey. We were welcomed with a steady climb up a cemented path passing by houses of the locals and children greeting us with their smiles and waves. One of the climbers being exposed immediately to a sudden assault got sick and only at the first waiting shed that she recovered. As soon as we ascended the hills, we were overtaken by the other group. They were fast climbers and enthusiasts apparently. We were passing by villages with gentle slopes by bushes, guava trees and green grass. The more we ascended, the better we see the mountains rising in the background. There, we saw the provincial road we traversed before arriving at the market. The eight (8) climbers were divided into three groups. Three fast climbers were with the guide. Another three were in the middle and two were at the end.

PICTURE PERFECT

The view after two hours of trek

At 1020hrs, the group reached a plateau-like grassland where we rested and enjoyed the view. A number of pictures and selfies were taken not counting the jumpshots made. After two hours of long trek we savored the view and the cool wind coming from the mountain. Some members of the other groups were left behind and we overtook them on the way. We had some short chit-chats with them as we move along the way. We have coordinated with the porters that we will meet them at the shortcut. We decided to take the shorter way missing the Domolpos village and straight to the water source since we are running out of drinking water. We were catching our breath every ascent but as we moved forward, we were able to sync our breathing with our steps that made our climb much comfortable. The sun was up but the trees and the pines gave a much needed shed. The weather changed drastically. There was a strong wind and fog quickly covered our path. We could not see farther than 50meters. Still, it was picture perfect.

LUNCH

Picnic at km.12

At 1240hrs, we arrived at the Indupit lunch break place approximately 12kms from the summit. After almost 5hours of ascending the mountain we were shocked to find a van passing right in front of us. We were all screaming inside..."How on earth that we were made to bear the pain and sweat in conquering the slopes when we can just rent this van to reach this height?" "This is unfair" "Oh, how I love to deflate the tires so that all of us will walk!" But then, we might defeat our purpose if we will just take the van. It was drizzling and our food was already cold. We need not cook anything yet since we still have our provisions. We laid the ground sheet and we had a picnic-like lunch. As we sat to take our lunch, dogs and chicken alike surrounded us. They showed us their hospitality and they patiently waited for our leftovers. Three dogs performed a synchronized dance number much to our amazement. A much needed 30-minute rest was all we ever need. After refilling and power-napping, we took off under heavy fog.

Dense fog highlights our trek after lunch

ROAD

The next nine (9) kilometers were just an idle walk, a hike. We were following a road carved out of the mountain slope maybe for a future farm-to-market road. It was totally rough and could be muddy when it rains. Loose stones and rock were all over the place and the wind is slowly bearing down on us. From a moment the sun shows up then a cloud covers it and a strong wind pushes it past our slope. We gradually traversed the never ending road from one kilometer marker to the other.

Wide road ahead

We then started to ask questions if these markers were really precise since a not so distant 500meters seems like forever. We walked and walked and walked and walked. Then from afar, we saw this huge mountain with its summit covered with fog. There I knew that it was Mt. Ugo. But wait, the marker says that it's seven (7) kilometers to the summit. Are you kidding me? That mountain seems like twenty (20) kilometers or more. We started to doubt that these markers were erected to boost the morale of the mountaineers. he he he.

BAD NEWS

After reaching another waiting shed, we were astounded with the view. Clouds were away and the sun at its afternoon rays gave so much impression that was surreal.

We posed and took pictures and selfies again and we were told to hurry up because at our pacing, we will reach the summit at 1900hrs. What? It's the middle of day and we only have 7kms more to go and you say we reach in the evening. We really thought that it was a joke.

The view from above

ROCK POINT

As we continued our walk in the park, we could see from afar this large boulder rock. On the way were cows grazing the grass on the slopes. This is one of the features of this trail. There are lots of them and lots of cakes along the way. You know what I mean. One of the climbers has Bovinophobia or the fear of Cattles and Cows that is why we pick on her when there are cows lying around.

Not the rock point but there is a big rock anyway

This is our way of letting the one with phobia overcome it. As soon as we reached the Rock Point, we were diverted to another road since the guide would not advice lady climbers to risk falling down the ravine because of loose soil. I wanted to take the risk because

it is actually nearer than the suggested pathway. Prudence dictates. Take the safest way. This was the only way and the way was going down the mountain. Ironically, to reach the top now was to descend some hundred meters. huhuhuhu. We stopped by to take our last refill of water since at the top, there's no watersource.

The porters were carrying extra weights now - our food and water.

3KMS TO FOREVER

"May forever talaga...ito yun."

At 1732hrs, the three (3) kilometers to summit marker stood proudly as it encourages the climbers that the end is near. This was the farthest three kilometers in my whole life. If I can run three kilometers for 30 minutes, it took me more than two (2) hours to attack the 45degree final assault to the campsite.

It was already getting darker and darker as we climbed gradually. We can already see our fellow mountaineers up the top. The wind is picking up so fast and the Devil's fork kinda scared us to our death. The path was grassy but the fall at the other side was nauseating. We focused our attention only at the other side of the trail since we don't want to fall down. The sun was out, the wind was so strong, the fog covered the path and flashlights seemed like fireflies from afar. Another group showed up from behind us. Like us, they were all separated from their group. Speed climbers ahead, while slow climbers were way behind them. I can see them from my standpoint. The Bovinophobic climber was exhausted and I have to take her back pack. It was totally dark and I only got my flashlight to guide our way. Walking up 45degrees in the dark with loose stones in your path is not as easy as it seems. A single misstep will send you rolling down the hill like Jack and Jill. All we can ever see were the stars and the lone tree standing at the top of the mountain. It was a deceiver. When we reached the tree, it was not over yet. There's another path towards another tree. This really is forever.

The notorious devil's fork

THE CAMPSITE

When we finally reached the campsite there was chaos. The wind was so strong that we could barely erect our tents. Our companions were short of getting hypothermia because of the cold and we don't have our provisions ready yet. At this moment, I realized that in surviving, food does not matter anymore. What you need is a shelter. We erected our tents against the wind. When we were inside our tents we stabilized our belongings so that they will not be carried away by the wind, then all fell silent. Nobody cared to boil water or to prepare dinner. All went to sleep exhausted. We changed and we all went to sleep. All tents were not even erected yet; we all just cramped inside the tents and vanished in our dreams. But even in our dreams we were haunted by the long journey. Others claimed that even in their dreams they were still climbing and falling down the steep mountain.

Let's call it a day folks...no dinner, just complete rest.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Mountain Climbing 101 #1

Sunrise in Mt. Pulag

After having traversed a number of mountains locally and internationally, I may now be entitled to speak about the basics of mountain climbing. I am writing this article for amateur climbers and perhaps also for the enthusiasts who might have missed some important details in making the climb more meaningful and exciting.
For me, mountains are special meeting places of God and man. From the days of old, God summons His patriarchs and prophets alike to speak with Him on top of the mountain. Our Lord Jesus Christ spoke with His Father in prayer and the encounter occurs on mountain tops. Somehow, every climb and every successful attempt to reach the summit, calls me to a deeper communion with the Creator God.
I believe that the spirituality of divine encounter can be achieved at every attempt to reach the top. An outdoor adventure now becomes a religious experience. Every step of the way towards the peak is a gradual discovery of the marvels of God's love and intervention in our lives.
Here are the basics:

1. PLANNING
This involves a careful selection of sites, the date and days of climb, the difficulty of the climb, the members who will join the expedition, the possible weather condition, logistics and the budget. There should be at least three (3) plans if one or the other fails. Never attempt to climb without any prior plans! We had one experience of this when we scaled Mt. Kanlaon. We don't have any information whatsoever. What we saw was the mountain and we decided to climb it. We just packed and left spontaneously. Yes, we successfully reached the top but the following days, we could barely walk. This brings me to the next prerequisite.

2. PHYSICAL FITNESS
I call it conditioning. This involves rigorous exercise for at least a month before any major climb. One can do jogging, workouts, stair climbing and acclimatization. Let us be reminded that there are no hospitals up there or maybe there's no turning back. Under extreme conditions one must always be physically fit. Many climbers discovered their interest after the first climb because they have prepared themselves physically. A number also promised not to climb again because they have not prepared themselves. Every step of the way became a struggle and a regret.

3. EQUIPMENTS
What discourages one to get involve in mountain climbing is the lack or the absence of right equipment. I would rather say, not so. Once, I climbed with complete gears. I tell you, it was a burden. I am not encouraging complete equipment other than when you are climbing by yourself. In group expeditions, know that the basic equipments are being distributed to all the climbers. This is the beauty of group climbing because there is no room for to-each-his-own, almost everything can be shared and there is always room for everyone. What is important is your personal hygiene kit, dry clothes, sleeping bag, fleece or jacket, trekking shoes, water container. That's all there is to it. Don't tell me you don't have them.

4. PRAY
You are going to climb the mountain of the Lord. Always start the ascent with a prayer, reach the summit with a prayer and end the expedition with a prayer. Expect that there are possible dangers in this kind of activity. It pays to ask for guidance and protection.

5. SET YOUR GOAL
Ain't our goal reaching the summit? Yes, of course! But set your individual goal i.e., before reaching the top I should have already befriended every climber in the expedition; I could have at least noted 10

various flora and fauna specific to the place; I will push myself beyond my limit and prove to myself that I can overcome any difficulties; I will offer this climb to ....; I should have prayed all the mysteries of the rosary; and so much more. Yes, we want to reach the top but if we have proven to ourselves that we can do more than that, how meaningful your climb would be.

6. WATCH YOUR STEP
Literally, watch your step. I have proven this many times. When you watch

where you are stepping, you will have a greater stamina to ascend continuously without catching your breath. When you set your eyes on the never-ending slope above you, you will tire easily and you tend to halt more often than not. Perhaps, this is psychological.

7. FIRST TEN MINUTES
The first 10 minutes of a 45degree assault is the most difficult climb. Don't you worry. It's normal. Our body has not adapted yet to the terrain and the intensity of the physical activity. Once our muscles get the hang of it, then the rest of the climb is just going to be a piece-of-cake.

8. GET A PORTER
There's a price to convenience. We call that PORTER. One can hire them before every major climb. They are usually locals who benefit from the job of carrying your back packs and equipments for you. Now, you can conveniently walk-in-the-park the whole course of the expedition.

9. KEEP DRY AND WARM
In extremely low temperature during the night and on top of the summit, your mortal enemy is being wet. Not to mention that weather is very unpredictable in the mountains. When it rains, it pours. When you get wet, you can easily suffer from hypothermia. Make sure you have thermals, water-proofing capabilities, hot drinks, and zip locks.

10. RESPECT
Respect Nature, Respect the Locals and Respect each climber. This means that we avoid obstructing the normal course of nature by keeping our trash, not uprooting the vegetation, not disturbing the locals, being courteous to the locals, and most of all respecting the personal space and the much needed rest of your fellow climbers. In this moment of expedition, you (group) are the world. Your behavior and attitude greatly reflects the way you deal with the world. Make this moment a re-learning experience.
 

The Pulag Experience

Hakbang Mountaineers at the summit of Mt. Apo in October 2014

Even before they descended Mt. Apo last October of 2014, the group already planned to scale Mt. Pulag as soon as they have regained the strength expended clearing the heights of this proud peak of the island of Mindanao.

Half a year after conquering the tallest in the south, the amateur trekkers want to turn pro by clearing the highest in the north.

On the 10th of April, 2015, all members of group gathered in Baguio for the final preparation. Though there are first time climbers in the band, nothing but excitement is seen in their faces. No sign of nervousness or doubt about reaching the summit, even if they have decided to tackle it via the “killer trail”.

Preparing the provisions

 
Early the following day, they proceed to the DENR Office in Ambangeg for the Orientation before the ascent. While, the orientation was set at1100hrs, the group had to wait for another hour for their turn, since they happened to be just one among the 18 other groups lined up to listen to indications from the office which accepted their registration and permitted their daring attempt.

The Orientation lasted for an hour, delaying lunch break to 1300hrs. The group had no choice but to take their last meal before ascent on board the jeepney which will take them to the jumpoff site at Kabayan.

By 1430hrs, the group started on a steep hike under the scorching heat of the sun, which gave the climbers an idea that the marker which stands at Kabayan that said “Difficult Route” isn’t lying. Upon reaching the station of the guides and porters (Akiki Trail Visitors’ Center) at 1515hrs, they immediately settled the fees, said a simple prayer and pushed on at about 1545hrs.

At DENR Ambangeg for the Orientation

When the group reached the Skull Area, they already have gained momentum and were by that time enjoying the trail.

The hikers arrived at the camp site along the Eddet River at 1745hrs, where they joined three others groups whose tents are already pitched. It appeared as if the group brought rain to the site, because it poured as they came. Some immediately erected their shelter, while others started preparing the dinner.

Each camp site is already furnished with a semi-permanent accommodation for guides and porters and a 2-cubicle toilet, which facilitated the campers need for relief.

Eddet River Campsite

Dinner was ready by 2000hrs, followed by a short conversation and a long line of campers wanting to use the “blessed” cubicles either for wash-ups or for final unloading of unnecessary weight in preparation for a deep slumber on that peaceful night. By 2200hrs the Eddet River campsite was indeed filled with grand silence.

The succeeding dawn, many were awakened by the noise created by the insensitive campers from another group loudly asking around where the ingredients for their breakfast are. By the time it was our turn to arouse, we already knew from their conversations every detail there is to their early meal. 
At 0400hrs of the second day, everyone was up to break camp. All they had to fuel their sluggish tummy was a small piece of pandesal and a few sip of coffee as they gaze up the mountain – to that part which appeared to them as if a quarter more from the Eddet River camp site to reach the Marlboro Country – where the early hikers already are. With the morning light already breaking the previous night’s darkness, at about 0545hrs, after some photo were taken, the group moved on.

Traversing the constant ascent

On their way up, they have over taken the two other groups who started the hike ahead of them. By 0845hrs., they were already at the Marlboro Country, where they prepared their brunch. At about 1030hrs, after a short rest, they proceeded with the hike which was increasingly tiring.

When they reached the resting place where the last water source was, at around 1130hrs., they met up there with the group they were looking up to while having their breakfast at the Eddet River camping area.

From there, with their remaining strength, they went on pushing harder until the last man of the group reached the Saddle camp site at 1500hrs. After pitching the tents, they celebrated the Holy Mass at 1600hrs, with some members of the other groups.

Divine Mercy Sunday Mass

While preparing for dinner, the heavens poured down rain like there’s no more space to keep it up there. The heavy rain was preceded by thick clouds that obscured the entire camp and so did our plan to hike up to the summit to view the sunset. The cold night was, therefore, spent inside the tents with a wish the the waters wouldn’t find its way inside our poor nylon and polyester shelters.

Similar to the previous dawn, the same noisy group – as if not running out of displaced enthusiasm, which at that moment was synonymous to “excessive thoughtlessness” – once again made public discussions regarding their coming meal about which no one else is interested especially when you check your watch and it says “0130hrs”. Despite this, everybody patiently struggled to find rest looking forward to a morning with a better weather.

Breakfast at Marlboro Country

They set themselves to rise at 0400hrs, to start hiking their way up to the summit. As they wished, they were greeted by an indescribably serene dawn. By 0430hrs, they were already at the peak, where all the other climbers gather to witness what not many climbers are so lucky to view – the rising sun over the sea of clouds giving light and life to what seemed to be the playground of the gods – that morning these climbers were the gods. They remained up there for quite a while to enjoy glory that is visible in this masterpiece of the true God – the generous God who wishes His humble creatures to find their beauty, goodness and unity in their being.

On top of Luzon at 2,922masl

Inebriated by what they saw, they descend to the Saddles Camp at 0700hrs for a simple breakfast before finally packing up and breaking camp.

By 0900hrs, the band was ready to hike through Ambangeg Trail. Having been trained by the tough trail of Akiki, their descent appeared easy. They reached Camp 2 by 1100hrs and Camp 1 at about 1200hrs.

By 1230hrs, they were already resting at the Ranger Station, preparing to proceed to the DENR Office to report on their successful trek and to claim their Certificate.

They are now, according to the Certificate, “included in the Mt.Pulag National Park (2922masl) book of honorary climbers.”

The expedition ended at the Rangers Station

“Only the brave and the daring survive!”
So, did they.

- Bro. Christian De Sagun, rcj